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本文探讨西庄附近海域的波浪状况,分析由于人工挖沙影响,使得登州浅滩的防护作用发生变化,导致近岸波浪作用增强,造成海岸侵蚀.最后讨论设计波要素的确定,为防浪护坡工程提供必要的设计依据. 相似文献
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通过在二维数值水槽内用边界元法直接求解Laplace方程,对规则波在缓坡上的变形及破碎进行了数值计算。分析了不同底坡及采用不同底摩阻系数时规则波的破碎特征,并对规则波破碎的极限坡度进行了研究。重点分析了规则波破碎时海底坡度、底摩阻系数及波形不对称性对破碎指标的影响。 相似文献
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古风力是一项重要的古气候指标,其定量恢复是一个难题。风作用于水体产生的波浪大小间接地反映了风力,能够为古风力的恢复提供思路。发育于破浪带和冲浪回流带的破浪沙坝、沿岸沙坝分别记录了破浪和冲浪过程,作者分别介绍利用古湖泊中发育的破浪沙坝和沿岸沙坝进行古波况和古风力恢复的原理和操作流程。(1)根据破浪沙坝的几何形态,可以将其厚度与破浪水深建立函数关系,而破浪水深又由破浪波高决定,因此破浪沙坝厚度可以恢复破浪波高,据此可以进一步根据波浪统计关系恢复有效波高、根据风浪关系恢复风力。此方法依托以下3个参数: 单期次的破浪沙坝厚度、破浪沙坝的基座坡角、古风程。(2)沿岸沙坝厚度近似记录了冲浪的极限高度,后者受控于有效波高,据此也可以恢复有效波高和风力。此方法依托以下5个参数: 单期次的沿岸沙坝厚度、古(平均)水深、古风程、古风向相对于岸线的入射角、组成沿岸沙坝的沉积物粒度。上述2种方法综合性较强,涉及古风向、古地形坡度、风程或盆地直径、古水深等参数的恢复,需要综合运用古地貌恢复、去压实校正、古岸线识别、古水深恢复等技术,并需要结合波浪理论。古湖泊滨岸带地层中保存有大量的滩坝沉积,利用其恢复古波况和古风况具有一定的应用前景,能够有助于更详细地重建沉积盆地的古地理背景。 相似文献
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不同结构形式潜堤上的随机波浪运动 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
潜堤在海岸保护和促潍保淤中具有重要的意义。工程效益和经济投入受到潜堤结构形式和高度的影响。基于RANS方程和流体体积（VOF）方法的模型，计算不同潜堤上的波浪运动。潜堤形式包括矩形结构、梯形结构、半圆结构和槽形结构。模拟了不规则波越堤时波浪的破碎特征、破波类型以及波高的变化。通过分析流场和波高分布的变化，得到潜堤上波能散耗的规律，并且得出最优潜堤结构形式。讨论了相对堤顶高度、破碎点位置、相对堤顸宽度、波陡和潜堤结构形式等对波能耗散的影响。 相似文献
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Chung Rak Song Jinwon Kim James Tyler Kidd Alexander Cheng David Admiraal 《国际泥沙研究》2018,33(3):243-249
In this study, the effect of the thickness of a planar jet on the erosion depth when the jet impinges on a surface composed of cohesive soil was analytically and numerically evaluated. The results showed that the erosion depth was practically independent of the nozzle thickness for erosion depths shallower than the potential core length (i.e. the region of the jet in which the central flow velocity is the same as the nozzle velocity). The relation between nozzle thickness and erosion depth was non-linear with continuously variable slope for erosion depths deeper than the potential core length. Finally, the relation was approximately linear when the erosion depth converged to the equilibrium erosion depth. The findings of this study indicate that direct and fast prediction of the erosion depth in the field is possible using the data from a small scale soil erosion test with similar flow velocities. 相似文献
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- When waves propagate into diagonal opposing current from non-current area, not only the wave parameters but also the direction of wave propagation will change, that is, wave refraction will occur. The authors have calculated the changes of wave parameters, including wave refraction, by Linear Wave Theory, and have also done systematic study on wave transformation and breaking in opposing current by means of experimental analysis and theoretical calculation. In order to know the effect of wave refraction, computation is done in this paper about wave transformation and breaking on gentle slopes in diagonal opposing current. 相似文献
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目前,国内无人值守数字地震台站数量众多,台站开关跳闸作为一项常见故障直接影响观测数据的稳定与连续,浪费大量人力物力。通过运用新产品自复位断路器能有效减少台站受雷电、漏电等原因影响造成的台站跳闸事故。该技术在无人值守数字地震台站中应得到广泛应用。 相似文献
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Adrián Pedrozo-Acuña Alec Torres-Freyermuth Qingping Zou Tian-Jian Hsu Dominic E. Reeve 《Coastal Engineering》2010
This paper presents an integrated investigation of physical processes generating impulsive pressures under the action of plunging breakers impinging on gravel beaches. This work is an extension of a recent investigation which suggested that wave impacts from plunging breakers acting on gravel beaches may be a key mechanism to enhance sediment mobilisation. In particular, comparisons of full scale laboratory measurements against model results from a well-validated phase/depth-resolving numerical model based on the Reynolds–Averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations are presented. This represents the first attempt at comparison with such a tool against observed hydrodynamics on steep (slope~1/8) gravel beaches at prototype scale. In order to understand how impulsive pressures are generated under plunging waves, the numerical model is used to carry out a detailed investigation to examine the role of each of the acceleration terms in the momentum balance. Consistent with prior studies, numerical results show that under plunging breakers the local acceleration (∂u/∂t) alone cannot be used as a proxy for pressure gradients. However, the contribution of the third term (w∂u/∂z) of total acceleration is recognized for the first time and indicates that this term has an important role in both the induced pressure gradient and sediment mobilisation as induced by this particular type of breaking. Furthermore, results suggest that a parameterisation of the pressure gradient in terms of ∂u/∂t+u∂u/∂x, may not suffice when dealing with plunging breakers and hence there is a lack of a suitable parameterisation of this process in the present literature. Thus, for different types of breaking it may be necessary to consider a different characterisation of the pressure gradient toward the parameterisation of sediment transport inside the surf zone. 相似文献
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The initial stage of plunging wave impact obliquely on coastal structures is analysed. The problem is modelled through an oblique collision of an asymmetrical water wedge and an asymmetrical solid wedge. The gravity effect on the flow is ignored based on the assumption that the ratio of the incoming speed of the wave to the acceleration due to gravity is much larger than the time scale of interest. Similarity solution method based on the velocity potential theory is then used. The problem of this similarity flow is solved by a boundary element method through the Cauchy theorem in the complex plan. Results for the wave elevation and pressure distribution are provided, including the forces and moments, effects of different impact angles and the effects of oblique impact are investigated. In particular, negative pressure near the tip of the solid wedge is observed and its implications are discussed. 相似文献